Watering Tip #7 CHANGING WATERING SCHEDULES

Now that we are in the beginning of what is shaping up to be a hot summer conserving water should be at the top of the list for garden chores. If you haven't already, reducing the amount of water you are using will help conserve much needed water for later in the season.  It is time to make every gallon count.

My approach has been to reduce the water I am using by one-third. This is done by making sure all my plants are healthy. I have already fed my plants worm castings earlier this year. 

Worm Castings have an amazing nutrient package that, when added to soils, carry a diverse population of microbial life. Adding casting will increase diversity of beneficial organisms in soils, promote soil structure and aid in disease and pest suppression. Worm castings have even more beneficial microbes than composts that are worm free. Nutrients from worms casting are highly soluble which means they are broken down by water. With a liquid application the plant can benefit quickly and continually with the readily available nutrients that won’t burn roots. Applying casting 3 to 4 times a year will fortify soils for continued use and health in the garden. These casting will not burn your plants like synthetic fertilizers can.   

 Next I went to my system and cut 1/3 of the water from all of the 6 zones. From the mature trees to my lawn all of them are getting less water. The trees in the back are now on a 2 day a week 1 hour schedule, last year it was 3 days a week. 

My other zones are reduced from 30 minutes 3 times a week to 20 minutes 3 times a week.

My lawn is getting water every day, but I have cut the time from 24 minutes to 18, by the way it does not look like it did in spring, it looks yellow and a bit dry, but still alive. Once it cools down in early fall it will green up again. 

If I should notice wilting I will either water once or twice with the hose, or add a few more minutes to the zone. 

This is also a perfect time to check all of the emitters and system making sure it is functioning correctly. Replace what is needed and fix any leaks making sure the water gets to where it is needed. 

Here is a problem I have with rabbits, they chew on 1/4 inch line,  I try to bury it as best as I can. 

I hope this helps with watering this season, lets hope for a wet fall and lots of snow this winter. 

Marnie 

gardencoachinreno@gmail.com 

Watering Tip #6 PLANTING CREEPING TYHME INSTEAD OF A LAWN

Thyme Lawns

A thyme lawn is a soft yet strong variety of creeping thyme and there are several colors thyme to choose from. Not only is this naturally lovely looking ground cover beautiful, it is also extremely easy to care for, and most importantly uses much less water. Other features of established thyme lawns are no fertilizer are needed, just organic amendments when planting, You will also not have to aerate or thatching not to mention mowing can be limited to deadheading after the plants have bloomed. Once established many varieties of thyme can thrive will little care.

You should be able to find this plant in 3 ways, a gallon container, 6 pack and mud flats (a 16 inch flat that can be cut into pieces). If you can't plant when you get it home make sure to water while you wait to plant. 

Planting thyme is just like any other plant here in the high desert, add compost or soil amendment and make sure the area has been watered and plant. Thyme like other ground cover plants has a short root system and will need water 3 to 4 times a week for the first week or two, once it cools down water weekly, then biweekly. Water once a month over the winter if we don't get rain or snow during the winter months. Feed with worm casting in the fall and spring. 

Hope you get what you needed with this topic, send a note if you need any further help. gardencoachinreno@gmail.com 

Watering Tip #5 LAWNS How to Remove a lawn

This is a sensitive topic, gardeners have a love hate relationship with lawns. Some gardeners love caring for this green oasis, while other struggle to keep it green no matter how much water is use. The drought we are working through may make the decision easier for many, including me. If the time has come to remove  this blog posting is meant to help with the step by step directions to safely and effectively get rid of the lawn. Once removed  there are many things to replace it with, I will cover those ideas in the next blog post.

Most importantly make sure you are ready to do this, it is a big change not only for you but all of the plants located around your lawn . This photo is my lawn in the fall, once it cools down. It does not look this nice in the heat of the summer. 

Solarization

Solarization will not only kill the lawn it will also kill all pests that are in the top 3 to 4 inches of the soil. The mobile pests such as nematodes and other pest in a juvenile stage may be able to burrow deeper into the soil to escape the heat. Use organic amendments when planting to re-establish good healthy soil. 

1. You will start by mowing the lawn very short, and turn the water system off. If other plants count on that water make sure to set something up to ensure they are watered.
                                                                                                                            2. Once mowed and your are ready to cover give it a good last drench, this will help it heat up faster.
                                                                                                  3. Cover with a sturdy clear plastic that is a 2 to 4 ML thick and anchor well with bricks or rocks. The closer the plastic is to the soil the better. You will want to make sure the area is sealed well, the point is to get the area as hot as possible during the day and not cool down at night.                                                                  
                                                                                                           
4. Remove in about 4 to 6 weeks, if you leave it on longer the plastic will break down. The area's in full sun should be dead by now, the area's in the shade may need more time or mechanical removal.      

Sheet Mulching                                                                                                          This method can be a bit cumbersome because of the materials you will need to gather, but it is very effective and you can plant directly into the area you have covered. The graphic shows what and how to use for a very organic planting area. I have a friend who used this version, but did not use all of the products you see here and was very successful. Truthfully if you can cover the lawn with at least 3 inches of newspaper or cardboard, aged compost or manure, and cover with leaves or straw you should be able to plant in 2 to 3 months. In our area you may need to lightly water occasionally to keep in place will this to mulch breaks.

This photos shows how to mulch around plants

Mechanical Removal

I have never seen this done, but I know it is a machine that can strip the top several inches of lawn away. This sounds easy, but make sure you are careful of any roots of trees and shrubs and that are under the lawn. Call a professional to do this job. 

My next blog will cover different ideas as to what to replace your lawn with; some ideas
Edibles

Thyme lawns

Drought hardy plants.

Rock mulch

Early Summer Iris Care

I hate to think that they are done blooming, but my Iris are all done for this year. Now they are ready to deadhead. Deadheading is a great way to get some perennials to bloom again, unfortunately not Iris. Deadheading is a way to keep the plant from going to seed, and that is why I do this. Plants that are allowed to go to seed use an amazing amount of energy, energy I would rather they use to make more tubers.
I will now water about once a week, just to keep the tuber comfortable. More Iris care later in the summer.

The perfect cut
This photo shows the stem with a seed starting to form, note where my shears are, under all of the blooms.




Below are my before and after photos.







Before deadheading  

                                                         

 

                                    After deadheading
                                
Hope this helps you with your Iris care. Send a note if you have any questions.
gardencoachinreno@gmail.com